In the heart of Turin, on the elegant Piazza Castello, the Palazzo Madama is one of Italy’s most remarkable buildings. A mixture of Roman foundations, medieval fortifications, and 18th century Baroque splendour, this historic palace is both a former royal residence and a treasure trove of European art. Visit it not only for the building itself but also for the Museo Civico d’Arte Antica, with its large collection of paintings and decorative arts spanning many centuries.
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A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Palazzo Madama is part of the UNESCO-listed “Residences of the Royal House of Savoy,” a group of palaces and estates that reflect the power and cultural ambition of the Savoy dynasty. These residences, including the nearby Royal Palace, were designed to project the prestige of the House of Savoy, which ruled Piedmont for many centuries and later played a pivotal role in the unification of Italy.
Palazzo Madama is one of the most important entries in the list, partly due to its architectural features and historical significance, and partly because of the valuable art treasures within.
An Ancient Fortress
The fabric of Palazzo Madama stretches back to Roman times: it is built upon the ancient Porta Decumana, one of the original gates into the city. In the 13th century the site was enlarged to create a large fortress, the Castello degli Acaja. This was later extended to become the square building with four circular towers that are visible today. A grand Baroque frontage was added in the 18th century.
The palace was chosen as a royal residence by Christine of France in 1637, and was later the home of Maria Giovanna Battista of Savoy-Nemours. The association with these two “Royal Ladies” gave it the title of “Madama”. The castle had various functions in later years, including housing the first Senate of the Kingdom of Italy, but it was eventually chosen as the home of the royal art gallery.
Exploring The Palazzo Madama
Today’s visitors can explore the four floors of the castle, which take them on a journey through the artistic and political history of Turin and Piedmont.
Roman Remains And Religious Art
As you enter the building a glass floor reveals the castle’s Roman foundations. Here you can see the remains of the Porta Decumana, including the base of ancient towers and remnants of domestic structures. A fragment of Roman road is also visible. These archaeological features offer a glimpse into the city’s Roman past.
Also on the ground floor is a gallery of religious art, reflecting the spiritual life of the region. The display includes altarpieces, devotional paintings and sacred sculptures that once adorned churches and chapels throughout Piedmont.
Museum Of Ancient Art
The next two floors are dedicated to the Museo Civico d’Arte Antica, covering the medieval, Renaissance and Baroque periods. On the first floor is the picture gallery, where visitors can admire masterpieces such as the Portrait of a Man by Antonello da Messina, alongside works of art by Gaudenzio Ferrari and Orazio Gentileschi.
The second floor is devoted to the decorative arts, featuring ceramics and porcelain, textiles and glass from different periods. This collection showcases domestic life and craftsmanship across Europe. Not to be missed is the “treasure tower,” a small chamber in one of the castle’s towers, filled with precious objects.
There is more to see in the basement of the palace, where you will find the Medieval Lapidarium, which includes mosaics and the “Treasure of Desana”, an extraordinary group of artefacts worked in gold.
The Castle And Its Garden
But for me perhaps the most interesting aspect of the Palazzo Madama was the historic building itself. Its structure includes four towers – two at the front built around the Roman originals, and two medieval towers at the rear, designed to echo the ancient ones. The palace’s layered history is visible in its shape: the rear retains the fortress-like Acaja Castle, while the front boasts the Baroque façade.
The art gallery is housed in the richly decorated rooms of the former royal apartments. Ceiling paintings and fragments of frescoes evoke the grandeur of the palace’s days as a royal residence.
By way of contrast, a winding staircase leads you up a medieval tower towards the Observation Tower on the very top floor. From here you see the tops of the castle towers. And there are stunning views across the city, with the Alps in the distance.
Outside is the small moat garden. This has been reconstructed as it might have been in the Middle Ages, and is now a tranquil space filled with sculptures and greenery. It provides a striking view of the castle’s rear façade and towers, and serves as a reminder of the building’s defensive origins.
How To Visit The Palazzo Madama
- The entrance to the palace is located in Piazza Castello, close to the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace).
- Tickets can be purchased on-site or online. You can also buy a 4-day Royal Pass that allows you to visit several of the Savoy residences of the World Heritage Site.
- Guided tours are available.
- The museum is closed on Tuesdays.
