A former royal hunting lodge on the outskirts of Turin. A monumental palace with dazzling state rooms. And extensive gardens beneath the shadow of the mountains. This is the Reggia di Venaria Reale, one of the historic residences of the Royal House of Savoy, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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La Venaria Reale
The Palace of Venaria was built by Amedeo di Castellamonte for the Savoy royal family in the late 17th century. It was originally intended to be a base for hunting expeditions but soon expanded into a massive palace complex and one of the largest royal residences. The luxurious interior was filled with contemporary artworks, making it a favoured place to escape from the city.
The palace fell into disuse in the 18th century and was later used for military purposes. But a massive restoration project – the largest ever undertaken in Europe – allowed it to reopen in 2007. Today its splendid interior, baroque masterpieces and formal gardens make it one of the most visited museums in Italy.
The Reggia di Venaria Reale is one of the 14 properties that collectively make up the World Heritage Site of the Residences of the Royal House of Savoy, recognised as outstanding examples of Baroque monumental architecture and urban planning.
The Town Of Venaria Reale
The town of Venaria Reale (meaning “royal hunt”) dates back to Roman times, but its modern history dates from its adoption by the House of Savoy for its hunting grounds. The Reggia di Venaria Reale was built in the upper town, and is now the dominant feature of the area.
If you arrive by train your visit begins as soon as you leave the station. Walking down the main street, with snow topped mountains in the distance, you get the feeling of a grand approach to the palace. This is quite deliberate: the whole complex was planned to combine town, palace and gardens as an integrated entity.
Today the street is lined with cafés, bars and restaurants. About halfway along you come to the Piazza dell’Annunziata, designed as a scenic stop and a central meeting place. It is said to symbolise the central link of the Virgin Mary’s necklace.
Exploring The Palace
The complex consists of two main blocks: the original Palace of Diana, and the brick-built 18th century addition. The site also includes the Juvarra stables and the Capella di Sant’Uberto. There is a vast amount to see here: you need to allow enough time to explore fully or decide in advance what you would like to see.
The visitor route starts in the basement of the old palace, and includes an exhibition area telling the story of the Savoy family, the development of the state, and their architectural legacy. Then you move upstairs to the Piano Nobile and the state rooms. From here you come to the magnificent Galleria Grande, a large and impressive formal hall (during my visit music was playing and a group of naval officers were rehearsing for the Annual Grand Ball).
You never forget that this was a royal residence. There are ornate painted friezes and ceilings, sumptuous furniture and artwork. Some rooms greet you with music or light shows. It is all a way of conjuring up the life and times of the Savoyards.
As well as the works on permanent display you will see temporary exhibitions and – by way of contrast – modern art installations.
The Palace Gardens
The original palace garden was completely lost while the site was occupied by Napoleon’s troops. But part of the restoration work was a complete remodelling of the formal gardens, creating the extensive space that visitors see now. You will find lawns and clipped hedges, sculptures and terraces, and views towards the mountains.
The Upper Park, closest to the palace, has flower gardens and bowers. It is separated from the Lower Park by the Central Alley whose centrepiece is the Fountain of Hercules and a small grotto area. The Lower Garden itself is an extensive area with fruit and vegetable plantings.
Records show that the gardens were classically themed, and this is reflected in the restoration. A highlight of the garden is the long narrow canal with tree-lined banks that connects the Fountain of Hercules with the remains of the Temple of Diana.
How To Visit The Reggia Di Venaria Reale
- The Reggia di Venaria Reale is an easy day trip from Turin. The best way to get there is to take the train from Turin Porta Susa station to Venaria Reale (this is the same train that goes to the airport). Note that you want the second station of this name – Venaria Reale Stadio is the stop for the football stadium. The palace is approximately ten minutes’ walk from the station.
- Tickets can be bought online in advance or in the ticket office on Piazza della Repubblica.
- You can also buy a Royal Pass which allows access to all of the Savoy Residences over a four day period. If you choose this option note that you will need to go into the ticket office to show the pass and obtain a paper ticket.
- It is possible to take a tour from Turin including transport, entrance and guided visit.
- Note that the palace is not open on Mondays.
- There is a café inside the palace, and another in the garden (but the latter may be closed outside of the main tourist season). There are also lots of cafés and restaurants in the town.
- A small train is available to take visitors through the gardens (not during the winter months).
- Occasional concerts and other special events take place in the palace. Have a look at the website for details.
- Venaria Reale is also home to another Savoy residence, Borgo Castello in La Mandria Regional Park. It would theoretically be possible to visit both in one trip: the castle is a 40 minute walk from the Reggia. However there is a lot to see, and it would be a very long day!
